The Most Common Causes
Ranked by how often we see each one. The diagnostic that actually matters isn’t a guess from a list — it’s a tech listening to your machine, looking at the install, and checking the right things in the right order. But it’s useful to know what’s on the menu.
Blocked Vent or Restricted Airflow
Lint accumulates inside the dryer vent — the duct running from the back of the dryer to the outside of your house. Even when the lint trap looks clean, the duct itself can be 50% or more blocked. Restricted airflow means hot air can’t escape, the dryer overheats, and a safety fuse cuts the heat. Cleaning the vent often fixes the symptom on its own — if the fuse hasn’t already blown.
Blown Thermal Fuse
A safety device wired into the heat circuit. It blows once, permanently, when the dryer overheats — almost always because of #1. It will not reset itself. Cheap part, easy swap, but replacing it without fixing the underlying vent issue is a guaranteed callback.
Heating Element Burned Out (Electric)
The element coil physically breaks — same way an old light bulb breaks. No more heat path, the dryer runs cold air through the drum. More common on dryers 8+ years old. Visually obvious once the back panel is off, but the test takes seconds with a multimeter.
Failed Igniter (Gas)
The silicon nitride igniter glows orange to light the gas. They’re fragile — they crack from vibration or from repeated thermal cycling. When the igniter fails, the gas valve never opens, no flame, no heat. Continuity test confirms in under a minute.
High-Limit Thermostat Tripped or Failed
Like the thermal fuse but resettable. When the dryer gets too hot it opens the heat circuit. Sometimes it’s being triggered repeatedly by the same vent restriction — the underlying cause is upstream. Sometimes the thermostat itself has gone bad and needs replacement.
Bad Cycling Thermostat or Temperature Sensor
Newer dryers use a thermistor that tells the control board how hot the drum is. If it reads wrong, the board never asks for heat. Doesn’t fail often — but when it does, the symptom looks identical to a burned-out element.
Before You Call
A handful of things worth ruling out before you book the call — quick wins if any apply, faster diagnosis if none do:
- Is the cycle actually set to a heat setting? “Air Fluff” and “No Heat” modes don’t heat by design. The lowest-friction false alarm we see.
- Is the breaker fully on? Electric dryers run on a 240V double breaker. If only one half tripped, the drum spins but the heating element gets no power. Flip both halves firmly off, then on — not stuck in a middle position.
- Is the lint trap clean? Pull it out. Even partial blockage hurts airflow enough to trip safety circuits over time.
- Walk outside and check the vent termination. In Edmonton, dryer vents get blocked by snow drifts in winter, ice buildup in shoulder seasons, and bird nests in spring. Clear it if you can.
- When was the dryer vent last professionally cleaned? If the answer is “never” or “more than two years ago,” that’s almost certainly part of the diagnosis — add it to the call.
Why a Real Diagnosis Matters
Here’s the trap with “dryer not heating”: three different parts (element, thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat) all cause the same symptom. Two of them often blow together. Swap one without testing the other and the dryer works for one load and dies again. And none of them is the real problem if the vent’s restricted — they’re the consequence.
The 15-Minute Difference
- Tests the safety chain in order. Thermal fuse → high-limit → element → board. Each test takes seconds with a multimeter and rules out a wrong-part replacement before it happens.
- Checks the vent, not just the parts. Replacing a thermal fuse on a restricted vent is a guaranteed callback. We say so — and quote the vent clean separately if you want it included.
- Catches the dangerous case. Dryers tripping thermal fuses are also creating fire risk. Restricted vent + worn lint nest behind the drum + hot element is exactly how dryer fires start. We tell you what we found and what needs to come next.
- Doesn’t sell parts you don’t need. A working heating element doesn’t need replacement because the symptom looks like a failed one. The test takes 30 seconds.
What the Repair Typically Costs
Kodiak quotes labour as a flat rate per repair type, after diagnosis but before any work begins. Parts are quoted separately on your invoice. Typical labour ranges:
Dryer Heat Repairs
Standard repair (parts replacement or labour-only): Most heat-related dryer fixes — thermal fuse, heating element, high-limit thermostat, igniter (gas), thermistor — fall in the $220–350 range for labour. Parts are quoted separately when needed. Element prices vary a lot by brand and model (here’s why).
If your vent is the underlying cause: A full vent clean is a separate service. We’d rather quote it transparently than charge for a fuse replacement that’s going to blow again. See dryer duct cleaning for that conversation.
Service-call fee: $119, applied toward the repair if you proceed.
Your firm quote comes from your tech after diagnosis, before any work begins. You approve before we touch anything. Full pricing details.
Related Reading
- 6 Signs Your Dryer Is About to Catch Fire — Restricted vents kill dryers and start fires. The warning signs in detail.
- Dryer Duct Cleaning Edmonton — The service that prevents most “not heating” calls in the first place.
- Find Your Appliance Model Number — The model number determines which thermal fuse or heating element fits your dryer.
Ready When You Are
Don’t keep running the dryer hoping it’ll work itself out — that’s how vent fires start. Kodiak launches in Edmonton October 2026; join the waitlist for day-one priority booking.