The Most Common Causes
Ranked by how often we see each one. The diagnostic that actually matters isn’t a guess from a list — it’s a tech listening to your machine, looking at the install, and checking the right things in the right order. But it’s useful to know what’s on the menu.
Dust-Clogged Condenser Coils
The coils at the back or underneath shed heat. When they cake with dust and pet hair, the system can't lose heat — so it can't cool. Compressor runs constantly, food gets warmer. Often a fix that doesn't need any parts at all.
Failed Evaporator Fan
The fan inside the freezer compartment moves cold air from the freezer evaporator into the fridge section. When it fails, the freezer often stays cold but the fridge warms up because air isn't circulating across.
Defrost System Failure
Modern fridges run a defrost cycle a few times a day to melt frost off the evaporator coil. When the defrost timer, heater, or thermostat fails, ice builds up on the evaporator. Eventually it blocks airflow and the fridge stops cooling.
Door Seal / Gasket Failure
A torn or warped door gasket lets cold air leak out and warm air in. The compressor runs more often but never quite catches up. The cabinet feels warmer than the setpoint.
Compressor or Sealed System Failure
The compressor is the heart of the cooling system. When it fails — or when there's a refrigerant leak — the fridge stops cooling entirely. Sealed-system work is more involved and requires refrigerant handling. Quoted on-site.
Damper or Control Board
The damper between freezer and fridge can stick closed; the main control board can send wrong signals to compressor, fans, or the defrost system. Both require a tech to diagnose properly because the symptoms overlap with the simpler causes.
Before You Call
Before you book the call, a few things worth ruling out — quick wins if any of them apply, and a faster diagnosis if none of them do:
- Confirm the fridge has power. Open the door — is the interior light on? If no, check the wall plug and the breaker. Some fridges share a circuit with a counter outlet that a kettle can trip.
- Check the temperature setting. It happens more than you'd think — the dial got bumped. Confirm the fridge is set to mid-range (3–5 on a 1–9 dial, or about 4°C digital) and the freezer is around -18°C.
- Listen for compressor noise. Stand near the fridge for thirty seconds. Total silence means a power or control issue. A constant hum with no cooling points toward airflow or sealed-system. Either way, the tech wants to know.
- Move perishables to the freezer or outside (winter only). Save what you can while you wait. Edmonton garages are useful freezers from November to March.
Why a Real Diagnosis Matters
Fridge repair is one of the easier places to lose money on a wrong diagnosis. The symptoms of an evaporator fan failure, a defrost fault, and a sealed-system leak can look similar from the inside of the fridge. A wrong repair on a sealed-system fridge can easily run more than a new fridge is worth.
The 15-Minute Difference
- Distinguishes airflow from sealed-system. The first two are typically $300–500 repairs. The third can be $800+ and sometimes isn’t worth doing at all. The difference shows up under a few minutes of diagnostic work.
- Catches the dusty-coil case quickly. If it’s just dust on the back coils, you don’t need a $500 repair. We tell you and we don’t bill a full diagnosis for it.
- Reads defrost timing accurately. A defrost cycle that’s running too rarely (or stuck on) shows specific patterns. Most homeowners assume it’s a compressor when it’s really a $40 timer.
- Says when it’s time to buy new. 10+ years old plus a sealed-system fault usually isn’t worth fixing. We say so without charging a full diagnosis for the bad-news visit.
What the Repair Typically Costs
Kodiak quotes labour as a flat rate per repair type, after diagnosis but before any work begins. Parts are quoted separately on your invoice. Typical labour ranges:
Fridge Cooling Repairs
Small fix (no parts): Condenser coil cleanout, door seal alignment, defrost cycle reset — labour starts from $220. No parts needed.
Standard repair (parts needed): Evaporator fan replacement, defrost heater or thermostat, damper assembly — labour typically falls in the $259–350 range. Parts are quoted separately — fridge parts vary widely by brand and model (here's why).
Sealed-system work (compressor, refrigerant): More complex, requires refrigerant handling. Quoted on-site after diagnosis. Also the moment to honestly weigh repair-vs-replace — sometimes the right answer is a new fridge.
Service-call fee: $119, applied toward the repair if you proceed.
Your firm quote comes from your tech after diagnosis, before any work begins. You approve before we touch anything. Full pricing details.
Related Reading
- Is It Worth Repairing Your Appliance? — The repair-vs-replace math, especially relevant for fridges.
- Find Your Appliance Model Number — Where the model sticker hides on each fridge type.
- Appliance Maintenance Guide — The yearly condenser-coil clean that prevents most fridge calls.
Ready When You Are
Move the perishables to the freezer, then join the waitlist. Kodiak launches in Edmonton October 2026 — waitlist members get day-one priority.