FridgeFreezing Food?
Frozen lettuce, icy milk, tomatoes turning to mush when they thaw. A fridge that’s too cold is a genuine fault, not just an over-enthusiastic setting — and the causes are different from a fridge that won’t cool at all.
What's probably wrong
Worth ruling out first. If one of these is the answer you’ve saved yourself a service call, and if none of them are, the diagnosis starts from a better place:
Worth knowing before you call: where the food freezes tells you a lot. Everything frozen points at control or sensing. Only items at the back or under a vent points at airflow and placement, which may not be a fault at all.
The most common causes
Ranked by how often this kind of fault turns out to be each one. A list isn’t a diagnosis — that takes someone looking at your specific machine — but it’s worth knowing what’s on the menu before anyone quotes you.
Faulty Thermistor or Temperature Sensor
A small sensor reports fresh-food temperature to the control board. When it drifts and reads warmer than reality, the board keeps calling for cold that isn’t needed. Everything gradually overcools. Inexpensive part, and the symptom is unmistakable once it’s tested rather than guessed.
Stuck or Failed Damper
The damper is the door between freezer and fridge that meters cold air across. Stuck open, freezer-temperature air pours in continuously. Some are mechanical, some motorised; both jam, often from ice forming around the flap.
Items Placed Directly In Front of a Vent
Not a fault, but a real and common cause. The air coming out of the fresh-food vent is well below freezing. Anything parked directly in that stream — a carton of milk, a bag of greens — freezes while the rest of the fridge sits at a normal temperature.
Temperature Set Too Low
Worth ruling out early. A fridge should sit around 3–4°C. Dials get knocked, digital controls get changed by a curious child, and some models drop into a colder mode after a power interruption without anyone touching them.
Failed Control Board
The board runs the cooling logic. When outputs fail, the compressor or damper can run continuously regardless of what the sensors report. Less common than a thermistor, and considerably more expensive, which is exactly why it should be diagnosed rather than assumed.
Damaged Door Seal Causing a Run-On Cycle
A leaking gasket lets humid room air in. The fridge responds by running far longer than it should, which overcools the areas nearest the vents while the door end stays warm. The giveaway is frost building somewhere it shouldn’t.
Before you call
Two or three things worth confirming before you book the call — small chance one of them resolves it, and if not, the tech will move faster knowing they're already ruled out:
Press the door firmly closed and try a drain-only or spin cycle. A door that didn't fully latch is one of the most common false alarms.
Walk to the electrical panel and confirm the laundry circuit hasn't kicked. A kettle or microwave on the same circuit can sometimes cause an unrelated trip.
If the machine sits close to the wall, the hose behind it can get pinched flat. Pulling the machine forward a few inches sometimes restores flow.
If you see one (E18, F02, F21, OE, ND, 5C, etc.), write it down. The error code lets your tech pre-source the right part before the visit.
Why a real diagnosis matters
Several causes on the list above produce an identical symptom, and they sit at very different price points. That’s the whole argument for testing rather than guessing — a wrong part fitted confidently still leaves you with a broken appliance and a smaller bank balance.
A thermistor and a control board produce overlapping symptoms and sit at opposite ends of the price range. Testing takes minutes; guessing wrong is expensive.
Ice around a damper flap explains everything and points at a defrost problem behind it. Replacing the damper without finding the ice source means it returns.
Sometimes the answer is that a milk carton is sitting in the cold air stream. That’s a free answer and you should get it.
On a fridge past a certain age, a failed board changes the repair-or-replace conversation. That deserves a real diagnosis, not a shrug.
What the repair typically costs
Control boards are their own conversation. Board prices vary enormously by brand and model, and on an older fridge the honest recommendation is sometimes replacement. We’ll give you the numbers and a straight opinion before you commit.
Thermistor, damper assembly, door gasket and thermostat work falls in the $220–$350 range for labour. Parts quoted separately.
Applied toward the repair if you proceed.
Your firm quote comes from your tech after diagnosis, before any work begins. You approve before we touch anything. Full pricing details.
Ready when you are
Kodiak Appliance Repair covers Edmonton and the Capital Region. Book a time online, or call with a question — we pick up.
More resources
Fridge Repair Edmonton
All brands, all fridge symptoms, full pricing.
Fridge Not Cooling
Warm fridge, different causes entirely.
Fridge Leaking Water
Water on the floor usually means a blocked defrost drain.
Is It Worth Repairing?
When a control board changes the maths.
Honest, flat-rate appliance repair in Edmonton and the Capital Region. Run by a working tech who wants to do it right.