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Error Codes

Whirlpool Washer, Dryer andDishwasher Error Codes, Explained

October 22, 2026
Kodiak Appliance Repair
3 min read
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Whirlpool writes most of its codes as two halves: an F number for the part of the machine and an E number for the error, often shown alternately (F8, then E1). On dishwashers without a display, the same code comes as two sets of flashes. Below are the common Whirlpool codes, what Whirlpool says they mean, and the checks Whirlpool gives owners. Codes differ between models and generations, so check what your own manual says against the model number on the plate — here is where to find it.

Whirlpool washers

F8 E1, LF, LO FL — water isn’t coming in

The washer isn’t detecting the right amount of incoming water, or is taking too long to fill.

  • Open both the hot and cold taps fully.
  • Check the inlet hoses aren’t kinked and their screens aren’t clogged.
  • Check the drain hose is installed as the manual shows; Whirlpool lists it as a cause too.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

F9 E1, drn — long drain

The washer can’t drain properly. Whirlpool notes it’s sometimes an installation problem.

  • Check the drain hose isn’t kinked or clogged, and isn’t pushed too far into the drain pipe.
  • On front-loaders, clean the drain pump filter as your manual describes.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

F5 E2 / F5 E3 — door or lid won’t lock

The door (front-load) or lid (top-load) isn’t locking properly.

  • Make sure nothing is blocking it and it closes completely.
  • Whirlpool’s reset: press Pause/Cancel twice, then Power once. On top-loaders, Whirlpool suggests unplugging the washer for a few minutes to reset the control.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

Sud, Sd — too many suds

The washer adds rinse time to clear excess suds. Use HE detergent and less of it; Whirlpool also notes a kinked drain hose can cause it, and that thickened chlorine bleach can create excess suds.

F7 E1 — motor speed

Whirlpool describes F7 E1 on front-loaders as the motor not reaching the right speed. On a new washer, Whirlpool asks you to make sure the shipping bolts were removed, and not to overload it. Otherwise it needs service.

The short version

What Whirlpool’s F-and-E codes and the common short codes mean on its washers, dryers and dishwashers, from Whirlpool’s own product help.

Whirlpool dryers

AF, “Check Vent” — restricted airflow

The lint screen or vent is clogged, or the vent is crushed, kinked or has too many turns. The dryer keeps running, but slowly.

  • Clean the lint screen.
  • Check the vent behind the dryer and the hood outside.

If the run itself is the problem, see dryer duct cleaning.

F3 E2 — moisture sensor

Whirlpool says five loads in a row have dried without the moisture sensor registering anything.

  • Check the dryer is level.
  • Try a larger load on an automatic cycle.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

F2 E2 — keypad or control

Whirlpool lists a keypad or control problem. Turn the breaker off briefly, restore it, run a timed dry and see whether it returns; if it does, it needs service.

PF — power failure

The cycle was interrupted by a power loss. Press and hold Start to restart, or Power to clear it.

Whirlpool dishwashers

F9 E1 — long drain

The dishwasher is taking too long to drain.

  • Check for a clog in the drain or the garbage disposer.
  • On a new install with a disposer, make sure its knockout plug was removed.
  • Check the drain hose isn’t kinked.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

F8 E4 — water problem

Whirlpool points to water intake or flow, or water detected where it shouldn’t be.

  • Check the water supply is connected and on.

If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.

F6 E4 — float switch

Whirlpool says the float (overfill) switch is the likely cause, and that a dishwasher that isn’t level can trip it. Level it, cycle the power, and if it returns it needs service.

Where this comes from

Every meaning above is the manufacturer’s own, from its support pages:

A code tells you where the machine gave up, not always why. If the simple checks don’t clear it, that’s what a diagnosis is for.

Not sure what you’re looking at?

Kodiak covers Edmonton and the Capital Region, and Calgary and area. Get in touch if you’d like a straight answer on what your repair is likely to involve.

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