Whirlpool writes most of its codes as two halves: an F number for the part of the machine and an E number for the error, often shown alternately (F8, then E1). On dishwashers without a display, the same code comes as two sets of flashes. Below are the common Whirlpool codes, what Whirlpool says they mean, and the checks Whirlpool gives owners. Codes differ between models and generations, so check what your own manual says against the model number on the plate — here is where to find it.
The washer isn’t detecting the right amount of incoming water, or is taking too long to fill.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
The washer can’t drain properly. Whirlpool notes it’s sometimes an installation problem.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
The door (front-load) or lid (top-load) isn’t locking properly.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
The washer adds rinse time to clear excess suds. Use HE detergent and less of it; Whirlpool also notes a kinked drain hose can cause it, and that thickened chlorine bleach can create excess suds.
Whirlpool describes F7 E1 on front-loaders as the motor not reaching the right speed. On a new washer, Whirlpool asks you to make sure the shipping bolts were removed, and not to overload it. Otherwise it needs service.
What Whirlpool’s F-and-E codes and the common short codes mean on its washers, dryers and dishwashers, from Whirlpool’s own product help.
The lint screen or vent is clogged, or the vent is crushed, kinked or has too many turns. The dryer keeps running, but slowly.
If the run itself is the problem, see dryer duct cleaning.
Whirlpool says five loads in a row have dried without the moisture sensor registering anything.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
Whirlpool lists a keypad or control problem. Turn the breaker off briefly, restore it, run a timed dry and see whether it returns; if it does, it needs service.
The cycle was interrupted by a power loss. Press and hold Start to restart, or Power to clear it.
The dishwasher is taking too long to drain.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
Whirlpool points to water intake or flow, or water detected where it shouldn’t be.
If the code comes back after those checks, the machine needs a technician.
Whirlpool says the float (overfill) switch is the likely cause, and that a dishwasher that isn’t level can trip it. Level it, cycle the power, and if it returns it needs service.
Every meaning above is the manufacturer’s own, from its support pages:
A code tells you where the machine gave up, not always why. If the simple checks don’t clear it, that’s what a diagnosis is for.
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